Are these seeds viable or were they harvested too soon? Ty!! Note that none of the other A. tuberosas I planted were flowering when this particular plant was flowering and I don’t think I’ve ever seen A. tuberosa growing wild in my immediate area. A freeze killed the vines before the pods split. I have had good luck with the milk jug method in the past, will try that with these. The pod should be drying out and beginning to split. What to do? Is it a good idea to plant them here? I live in a suburb of Washington DC. please checkout my milkweed resources page for both native and non-native ideas. However, it’s no fun to separate seeds after the pods have burst open because of the fluffy mess! The flowers grow in umbels (i.e. Common milkweed plants grow to about 2 to 4 feet in height, with a thin, vertical growth habit. The leaves of this plant provide food for monarch butterfly larvae as a consequence monarch butterflies and their caterpillars love this plant. Boiling milkweed parts until tender and then discarding the water, which is the usual preparation, renders them perfectly safe. Just started 36 deep pots of this seed this spring. About the germination rate of the burned-fluff seeds: http://prairieecologist.com/2012/04/12/testing-assumptions-the-milkweed-seed-fiasco/, I picked several pods last fall and put them in a plastic bag. Remember that milkweed sap can be an eye irritant, so always wash your hands thoroughly after handling. Happy Harvesting! (Read the Spanish translation) Here are some resources to help you find the best milkweed for your area: Planting the Right Milkweed in your Region Simply empty seeds and fluff into a paper bag with a few coins and shake. In youth, leaves are waxy, pointed and dark green, later dropping from the stem and allowing the milky substance to exude from the growing milkweed. I just planted a few A. tuberosa this spring and only had a handful germinate. This summer and wanted to help the butterfly’s . Some of my abundant seeds would find their way there without help, but this should speed up the process a bit. Hi Tom, it sounds like you have enough milkweed to start raising, which is the first important step. The pods and seeds look fully developed and the seeds look brown and healthy for harvesting. So I assume they eventually turned in to Butterflies. Asclepias gigantean) is a quaint shrub or small tree with plenty of character. WE love seeing them and noticed not so many as when we we’re young we love to try and help bring them back for are grandchildren to enjoy and appreciate . Hello, Di…the fluff makes a big mess and blows all over the place. Harvest Milkweed Seeds without the Fluff Part 2. Thanks! I got allot but some clearly are not ready and splitting open…… So now what? If you find yourself with more seeds than you can use, here are a few ideas: The stems and leav… Will the seeds from fluffless pods still be viable? If you do have tropical milkweed in your garden, it is recommended to cut the plant back in the winter months to encourage monarchs to move on to their natural overwintering sites. Hi Kathryn, you can donate to organizations like monarch watch or save our monarchs or join a butterfly facebook group to trade with other enthusiasts…, If any of your readers have extra seeds, they can be sent to the Live Monarch Foundation. But, if you want a mature plant to start next season, you can overwinter indoors. Typically, these pods are horn shaped, or otherwise long, narrow and tubular. ; Swamp Milkweed, as its name implies, will do best in a moist environment, making it great for wet meadows or rain gardens. My house backs up to a canyon, so I would consider it an open space, and saw one Monarch. Since milkweed requires a period of cold stratification, it is best to either seed in late fall after a frost but before a hard freeze or to cold stratify in the refrigerator an seed in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked. I’m not a Gardener at all, I just really like Monarch’s and want to help and watch them grow…. Hi Arthur, I’m not sure how this will affect them, but I would still give them a cold moist stratification before planting and hope for the best…. If the plants don’t die back, the pods should continue to develop and produce seed….good luck! These milkweed flower buds are wonderful in stir-fries, soups, rice casseroles, and many other dishes. When I remembered them about noon, the car was closed up and the inside temp measured about 110Â°F. Itâs a butterfly haven now. One was still flying around this week. We only have had two monarchs all summer in our WA state garden.ð. And should I pick all of them. I just tried the method for separating the floss in the video and it worked great! I have pastures full of milkweed…. Thanks. I’m in Louisiana in zone 9a. The common name spider flower (Cleome hasslerana) aptly describes cleome’s large, loose flower heads. You can still separate the fluff indoors without making a mess…. seeds, you won’t have viable seeds for planting. Do it think the pods will mature this way? When we ‘pot’ our swamp milkweed, we do so in the spring when the shoots start to emerge. Milkweed is perhaps most well-known for its seeds; they are flat, 8 mm long, reddish-brown, and have a pappus of silky hair at one end. Save your seeds from the previous year and then start them indoors about eight weeks before your last frost date. I was recently made aware that I could harvest and donate some of the seeds for the Midwest region. This has been such a helpful source of information. Meanwhile, immature seeds are lighter with colors like white, yellow, and pale green. I had a lot of instars on mine. I think I’d better collect a backup pod or two from the less common plants though, for just in case. please don’t mind the spelling! Thank you. Hi Gayla, sorry to hear. Lots of options. If your region doesn’t have a true winter, you can always cold stratify milkweed seeds in your refrigerator: Milkweed being perennial, I assume I can leave mine alone (that first sprouted this year), disregard the pods/seeds and the original plants will sprout again next spring (I’m in Chicago). I had caterpillars on the plants until almost the end of October. Can they be cut and sundried? A decade ago we even raised some caterpillars and set the adults free – great fun with a 5-year-old. good luck! Hi Dick, there’s really not right/wrong ways…there’s what works for your particular situation and what doesn’t. I have just bought 3 of the narrow leaf milkweed and on one plant there are 2 seed pods. The caterpillars don’t seem to mind them. They definitely need larger pots at this point but should I go ahead and just plant them in the ground? The swallowtails we currently have in our porch won’t emerge from their chrysalides until (probably) next May. The weed takes away from the native grass. How best to plant? Hi Judy, the plants can survive temps as low as the high 20’s…if it’s going to get colder than that, you could overwinter plants indoors or just take a cutting of the plant with the pods and put it in water indoors to let them finish developing if they are close. The seed is still viable! My living room and myself are getting very fluffy! Could it be that vine with small white flowers that produces pods and is just a milkweed wannabe and not real milkweed? Often, you only really need a seed or two, especially if you have a small garden, while a milkweed pod can yield dozens of seeds. The seeds are light brown. Did I wait too long? 5. 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I wait and harvest seeds or should I try and add another type of milkweed for the information this.
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